Monday 1 July 2013

Christian Dior: Couture Fall 2013

the good...
The belts were great.

What else to make of Raf Simons’ most recent couture collection for Dior? Well it’s hard to sum up in words, so diverse were the styles and techniques on display that, viewing through a computer screen, it really is quite hard to follow what the designer’s intention is here.

the promising...
We have learnt by now, any collection from Raf will not be ‘couture’ in the traditional sense, and here we see again a swerve away from traditional parameters of fabrication for instance, in an attempt to make couture modern. Amongst the more traditional suiting’s were fabrics offering a  sportswear feel and sometimes the colour played up this vibe. But the pieces themselves were all over the show, sometimes feeling like mere sketches, flourishes of fabric that weren't perused further. A draped orange and magenta dress looked like the promising start of something to evolve, yet it was quite alone in its fluidity. The more structured shapes are where Raf’s at his surest and again these seemed the most coherent, displaying his modernist virtuosity to the fullest.

Strapless gowns continue to feature as shapeless columns for Hollywood waifs alone but Raf’s suits in treated fabrics looked fresh and contemporary. Mesh tops with embellishments over the naughty bits however seemed pointless in combination with the majesty of the tiered pleated skirt.
and the bewildering.

The collection as a whole cannot be easily surmised, only to say it was disparate. There are some great pieces in amongst it here, but as a vision, it’s hard to know if Raf’s going forward, back, or round in circles