the Iconics

The end of every season we all reflect on what’s gone by, what were the hits and what were the misses of the hundreds of shows on view. Everyone no doubt has favourites they follow and maybe discover new designers to follow in the future. Times are crazy just now, with  doors revolving at many major houses over the last year, and lots of strong opinions on the achievements of new designers at the helm.

Always comparing current collections with previous seasons, I’ve also been thinking what have been the best collections of the century? What have been the most iconic, inspirational and/or influential collections and designers that continue to stick in the mind?

Here's a few from my list- what would be on yours?

 Lanvin Fall 07. ‘Simple’and clean, classic but fresh. Fantastic colour. Sophisticated and strong but so feminine. The cutting is amazing. An utterly modern vision of high fashion that reflects the knowledge of a century of design, but is not beholden to it. YSL’s loss was definitely Lanvin’s gain when they allowed Alber Albaz the opportunity to develop his vision incrementally. This is possibly my favourite collection of all time and is the foundation stone for all the other wonderful work done at Lanvin since

Marc Jacobs Fall 12. Like an urban Galliano, Jacobs is a global citizen, infusing high and low influences from around the world, from throughout history. Lots of ‘grunginess’ in the colour palette and styling; lots of layers stacked upon each other and fabulous hats. Individual pieces are fantastic, but the way it comes together reflects the way people wear fashion today, a mix ‘n’ match blend of influences and styles in the quest for true originality.

YSL Fall 08 - so many of Stefano Pilati’s collections for YSL are memorable, but the first for me was this one. Ultra-modern, even futuristic, but not overtly so. Before any others had started paring back their aesthetic in the wake of the Great Recession, Pilati offered this vision of oversized silhouette that was so much more. Interesting shapes and proportions that have proven to be very directional, even if those that followed homogenised it to a sea of total beige. Will miss your collection Stefano, but rest assured, your work for YSL will become part of the archive that inspires countless generations in the future. A true visionary who added a distinct and modern take on the YSL label that never fell into cliché.

Alexander McQueen Spring 10. Not my favourite McQ collection of recent times (I prefer the previous Black, White hounds tooth collection for Fall), but Plato’s Atlantis ushered in the world of Digital print in a major way. He wasn’t the first to use print in this way, the sheer proliferation of this style of print since demonstrates McQueen’s direct influence. Another fantastic multimedia show (check it out online!) and the shoes of the century made famous by Lady Gaga. The Last great performance directed by the Last master of the twentieth century.