A little distance goes’ a long way.

St Laurent fall 2013: what's new

Prada fall 2013: irreverant cool

Givenchy fall 2013: ecclectic and chic

Following Hedi Slimane’s pastiche of a collection for St Laurent the other day, and the pasting I gave it (along with sooo many others) I thought a comparison was due to illustrate just how different it could have been, if he wasn’t simply mining his own backyard for inspiration.

As I had suggested, it wasn’t the influence that was the problem; there were definite Grunge references in Dries van Noten’s collection the season before and used to great effect. It was not a Grunge collection however, and interestingly, I would suggest, neither was Slimane’s; this was simply a simulacrum.

Second time round the block fashion revivals are nothing new, and neither are the forms they seem to take, dependent as the are on some shared understanding of visual troupes. Clichés abound; ‘Punk’ becomes studded leather jackets, ‘Doc’ Martins and a Mohican haircut, tartan and safety pins. In much the same way Hedi recycled a completely generic Grunge ‘code’ while completely missing any of the subtleties (and realities?) of the grunge proper. Grunge may linger in the popular imagination  with reference to baby-doll dresses, plaid, oversized cardis and big boots, but really, this is only part of the story that neglects so much. Hedi- you have been inspired with what Grunge has become- not it’s reality. “California-grunge?”- an oxymoron that could only exist in the 21^st century.

and then there was me...

Saint Laurent. Spring 2013. http://www.style.com/

Dior. Spring 2013. http://www.style.com/

  

The dust has settled. 

The shows have run and the reviews been written. Designers have been dismissed, others have returned. Some have delivered; some have offended, and in some peoples opinon, have managed both at the same time. 

It felt the Spring 2013 Ready to Wear season was being discussed and analysed months before anything had been sent down the runway. Battle lines were apparently drawn, and it was apparently the future of Parisian fashion that was at stake.

The longstanding ‘who’s it gonna be’ to replace Galliano at Dior had fashionistas in a twist , but this was nothing compared to the commotion once Raf was finally named as heir to the throne. Of course everyone had an opinion on how he would fit, myself included, and the sound of fashion editors licking their lips was deafening once Hedi Slimane was named to replace outgoing Stefano Pilatti at YSL.

Two former heavyweights who defined a generation of Menswear in the previous decade were now in command of two of the biggest names in Fashion, one not even having significant experience at womenswear previously.

Handbags at dawn! Who would prevail. Well of course the battle was less between Raf and Hedi; as it transpired the real shitfeast was to be between Hedi and Cathy Horn. But I transgress…

Everyone had an opinion on these debut collection of Raf and Hedi and I was no exception. Surprisingly, I didn’t actually find that much online based here in the NZ (although that is more likely to be a result of my lack of ‘in-the-know’ blogs- RagPony, your great!) 

So anyway; here it is. Another person’s opinion on fashion, coming fresh at a time which some are calling a pivotal moment in fashion history. Please look forward to one-sided, subjective, potentially biased opinions, critiques and reviews of all things fashion,including collections from Spring 2013 onward.

please feel free to comment, rebuke or disagree- after all, it’s no fun talking to yourself!