A little distance goes’ a long way.

St Laurent fall 2013: what's new

Prada fall 2013: irreverant cool

Givenchy fall 2013: ecclectic and chic

Following Hedi Slimane’s pastiche of a collection for St Laurent the other day, and the pasting I gave it (along with sooo many others) I thought a comparison was due to illustrate just how different it could have been, if he wasn’t simply mining his own backyard for inspiration.

As I had suggested, it wasn’t the influence that was the problem; there were definite Grunge references in Dries van Noten’s collection the season before and used to great effect. It was not a Grunge collection however, and interestingly, I would suggest, neither was Slimane’s; this was simply a simulacrum.

Second time round the block fashion revivals are nothing new, and neither are the forms they seem to take, dependent as the are on some shared understanding of visual troupes. Clichés abound; ‘Punk’ becomes studded leather jackets, ‘Doc’ Martins and a Mohican haircut, tartan and safety pins. In much the same way Hedi recycled a completely generic Grunge ‘code’ while completely missing any of the subtleties (and realities?) of the grunge proper. Grunge may linger in the popular imagination  with reference to baby-doll dresses, plaid, oversized cardis and big boots, but really, this is only part of the story that neglects so much. Hedi- you have been inspired with what Grunge has become- not it’s reality. “California-grunge?”- an oxymoron that could only exist in the 21^st century.

Hedi reckons the kids are (still) all right at St Laurent

YSL-WTF. (style.com)

High Fashion (style.com)

There were some great jackets and coats. In leather and wool suiting they were great classic cuts ranging from motorcycle jackets to tailored pinstripe double breasted. It took me a while to see these clearly however; initially I scanned through this collection, picked my jaw off the floor, and closed my browser. Mortified.

Going back, the above mentioned outerwear presented itself more clearly. The clothes that made up the remainder of the collection however, retriggered the gut wrenching feeling that resulted from my initial overview.

In relocating the Saint Laurent atelier from Paris to Los Angeles, much muttering eschewed, but many no doubt suggested you could take St Laurent out of Paris, but you couldn’t take Paris out of St Laurent. Today Hedi Slimane proved resolutely that you could. In a collection that reconfirmed (again) his predilection for urban youth street culture, Slimane presented a St Laurent collection that channelled 90’s grunge so thoroughly, so derivatively, that there wasn’t a hint of St Laurent the man to be seen.

Maybe in certain collared high neck dresses you could discern the influence of the 1960’s but it was really more about the unkempt, devil-may-care appearance of rebellious youth that Slimane was so evidently keen to capture. Kinder-whore baby-doll dresses- check. Oversize cardigans- check. Plaid- check. If Kurt Cobain had been alive, I’m sure he would have been front row centre.

There is certainly nothing wrong with these influences- it is of course how (and when) you use them. The 90’s vibe has been running through fashion for seasons now, particularly on the high street. Teens and urban hipsters the world over have been wearing this look for ages and ages. So what did Hedi bring? What was his high fashion spin on the most popular and visible trend existing in contemporary youth fashion? Well, there wasn’t one really. Sure the fabrics were undoubtedly expensive, but they didn’t look it.

I just don’t see how the St Laurent client is going to feel catered for y this totally unsophisticated look. Who would want to look like they’re dressed in the daughter’s wardrobe, AND have to pay through the nose for the privilege? No doubt the response is the intention to appeal to a younger demographic, but really I don’t know why. If you do want to put a younger spin on your collection, you have to do so with a certain sense of control- take Givenchy’s offering, both today and in previous collections; a great mix of heritage and youth to produce a unique blend of urban, edgy, sophistication.

As for the Grunge element. Too literal with no finesse. Done exponentially better by Dries van Noten last season. Sorry Hedi- I don’t know just how long this stubborn indulgence can last.

Dries van Noten, Spring 2013. all class.