There have
been some very big changes at the helms of some very big fashion houses in the
last 12 months or so, and one could sense a sea change was upon us. A flamboyance
that dominated the first decade was now deemed precious, ostentatious, indulgent,
and potentially down right crass. And so, the theatricality of Galliano- gone. The
sophisticated futurism of Ghesquière- gone. The urbane modernism of
Pilati- gone. Designers who had helped define the decade were now replaced by
newcomers who frequently sought to delve into the archives to ‘return to the roots’
of their esteemed houses. It really is like the previous decade never happened and there seems an assumption that by going back to explore the ‘archives’, this
period is not included.
And so it was at Balenciaga where the debut collection of
new designer Alexander Wang was, in his own words, about “going back to the
roots, identifying the codes of the house”. I do understand a new
designer wanting to stamp their own identity on the role, but it really is a
little disingenuous to not acknowledge the contributions of those who precede
you and all they have achieved.
My real problem with this approach is the reliance on
looking back, rather than looking forward. i don’t like the implication that
all the best ideas are those iconographic ones of decades ago.
But to the collection. As many have suggested it was a
pretty decent debut. I don’t know what I was expecting particularly but it wasn’t
the street vibe Wang has made so famous which for me was perhaps a shame. A bit
more of this in luxurious or high tech fabrics could have been an interesting
way to play it. Just as the Helmut Lang label has swung round to a more street aesthetic,
Wang could have moved into the territory Lang himself pioneered. For me that
could have been an interesting combination of Wang’s own sensibilities and the
heritage of the hose- both old and more recent.
As it was Wang went with the rather predictable. Cocoon shaped
coats may reflect his archival research, but really they’ve been collection
staples for numerous designers for yonks. Black and white. Very ‘classic, very safe. Lace trousers? Yawn.
Standouts however were those marbled wool coats- great textiles;
texture and colour with great volume without looking like yetis. Use of the
cracked paint technique also fantastic although hasn’t Margiela done this in
years gone by?
While it was all well and good, and for a debut very solid, I
think there’s plenty or opportunity for Wang to stamp his own personality on
the Balenciaga house more. It did after all take time for fellow American Marc
Jacobs to do that at Louis V. over time Jacobs has extended his scope and
helped build a house that is the equal of any in the verified world of couture.
Elaborate, complex and cutting edge in design and execution, Vuitton shows the
potential for fashion to operate at the highest levels of craft well offering
the most contemporary of clothing.
Let us remember, Alexander Wang is working for one of the most
lauded houses of Haute Couture. This is not just some musty old label in need
of a make over- it’s had that already and Wang must be ready to acknowledge the
achievements of previous designer Ghesquière if he wants to continue to move
the label forward.
Overall, there was not much originality. It kind of said
'Wang', and it kind of said 'Balenciaga'. It was contemporary and commercial. But really,
that was all. Personally, I’m looking forward to Givenchy and the designer who has
successfully revived that other fashion institution; Ricardo Tisci.
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